At Watches & Wonders 2023, we had the pleasure of perusing and reviewing the new Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2T that comes in three versions including a satin-brushed blue, black, or ruthenium dial. These new watches mark the final edition of the first calibre FB-T.FC that was launched in 2015. Eight years later after releasing the FB-T.TC with an octagonal case, a tourbillon movement with fusee-and-chain transmission, and a pillar-based construction, the new Chronomètre FB 2T comes with a round case for the first time ever in a 38-piece final edition.

38 years after obtaining his title of Master Horologist, Ferdinand Berthoud published the Traité des montres à Longitudes in which he summarized his research on marine clocks. This step reflects the maestro’s characteristic experimental approach as well as his determination to pass on his expertise. In reference to this achievement, the last 38 examples of Calibre FB-T.FC-2 will be dedicated to this Chronometer FB 2T collection.

Available in three versions, the new Chronomètre FB 2T comes in 18K white gold with a blue satin-brushed dial as the Chronomètre FB 2T.1, in 18K rose gold with a black satin-brushed dial as the Chronomètre FB 2T.2 and in 18K rose gold with a ruthenium satin-brushed dial as the Chronomètre FB 2T.2-1. These three new references are sources of inspiration for collectors who will have the opportunity, for this ‘Final Edition’, to create their own customized timepiece by choosing the case material, the color, and the finishing of the dial and the leather strap.

Things to Know About the Watch

The round case measures 44 mm in diameter and features the signature transparent sapphire ‘porthole’ and a thickness of 14.3 mm. The new Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2T Final Edition features an 18K gold dynamometric crown with a black ceramic medallion, exhibition back fitted with a glare-proofed sapphire crystal pane, domed “chevée” sapphire crystal glare-proofed on both sides and hand-engraved with the inscription “EDITION FINALE” on its case back.

The watches are fitted with brass dials with a base plate finished with a vertical satin-brushed finish and with blue, black, or ruthenium CVD treatment. The time indication at 12 o’clock features a silver-toned ring with black varnished hours and minutes. Meanwhile, the seconds on the periphery of the dial are indicated via a silver-toned ring with a black-varnished railway-type track. At 9 o’clock, the power reserve indicator is engraved on the main plate track and the inscription “CHRONOMÈTRE VAL-DE-TRAVERS SUISSE” is at 6 o‘clock underneath the opening for the tourbillon.

All three watches feature facetted and skeletonized dagger-shaped hours and minutes hand in 18K white, rose or CVD-treated gold, arrow-shaped power-reserve hand in 18K gold with blue CVD-treatment and central sweep-seconds hand in rhodium-plated bronze, gilded bronze or bronze with blue CVD treatment depending on the model.

With its characteristic pillar-type construction, the manual wound calibre FB-T.FC-2 is a constant force tourbillon with fusee-and-chain transmission movement. Featuring 15 nickel silver bridges and three sapphire half-bridges, the movement is all held up by polished steel pillars surrounding the mechanical organs.

This construction is typical of 18th-century marine chronometers and this demanding architectural blueprint is reflected in the design of all components. This 1,134-part —including the chain— movement provides a power reserve of 53 hours and is a real treat for the eyes. Only 38 movements compose this Final Edition and once they are gone, they are gone.

On the Wrist & Price

The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2T Final Edition offers the opportunity to create a customized timepiece by choosing the case material, the color, and the finishing of the dial and the leather strap. The leather strap is hand-sewn with rolled edges and crafted from a single piece of leather. The strap is equipped with a length-adjustable twin-blade folding clasp in 18K gold matching the metal of the case and a pin buckle is also available on request. On the wrist, the round case wears slightly smaller than the usual octagonal cases but still close to its 44 mm diameter. A remarkable example of 'Haute Horlogerie' that keeps showing the horological prowess of this young manufacture with a very rich history behind it.

Sticker Price $268,000 USD —price subject to change depending on the customization. For more info on Ferdinand Berthoud click here.