Colored dials in watches are taken for granted now, though, in fact, they are a relatively modern development —especially in blue. Because of that, In its December 2, 2020 auction, Bonhams Hong Kong will offer a series of blue-dial wristwatches, tracing the history of what is now the hottest style trend in horology. Colored dials have their origins in the 1970s, when chronographs and dive watches used bright orange and zesty yellow to accent details, allowing wearers —mostly pilots and divers— to read the time in a clearer and faster manner.

This functional intent unexpectedly opened the door to incorporating color for purely aesthetic purposes. Brands began to break away from their greyscale tradition to embrace and experiment with colors in their design. From Audemars Piguet’s ground-breaking Royal Oak series introduced in the 1970s’ to the Patek Philippe’s Nautilus series trending since the 1990s' —both on offer in Bonhams’ forthcoming sales— color dials became a novel and highly-preferred feature for many collectors.

The elegant and dignified blue dial proved the most versatile and popular, and watchmakers began to use them for their limited-edition models, further encouraging the market to ‘go blue’. The timeless blue dials are now part and parcel of anyone’s collection. 

 The upcoming Bonhams sales present a wide series of blue dial watches across all price points and styles, led by a Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3712/1A-001 with Date, Moon Phases, and Power Reserve, from 2005. Released in a limited production of about 1,500 pieces in 2005 before being discontinued about a year after, the Nautilus Ref. 3712 is one of the rarest variants of the much-loved Nautilus family, and is an upgrade from the Ref. 3700 with three additional complications on its gradient blue dial including a power reserve indicator, an analog date, and a moon-phase display. This lot will be offered in Bonhams Luxury Online sale with its original presentation box and certificate. Estimate: HKD $400,000-900,000 —approximately $51,500 to $116,000 USD.

Sharon Chan, Bonhams Director of Watches, Asia, commented: “The market for blue dial watches is stronger than ever, in general achieving prices 10% to 20% higher than their black-and-white counterparts. We see this trend across all price points, and not just for men’s timepieces but also premium ladies’ watches, such as the two superb examples of sapphire wristwatches we have on offer this time.” 

Other blue-dial highlights include the following watches:

Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Blue Bronzo PAM 671, circa 2017, complete set. Estimate: HKD $120,000-180,000 —approximately $15,500 to $23,000 USD. More information about this particular reference can be found here at WCL.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Ref.25770ST, circa 1999, complete set. Estimate: HKD $100,000-180,000 —approximately $12,900 to $23,000 USD. More information about this particular reference can be found here at WCL.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600 Orange Mécanique in stainless steel with orange sapphire-set bezel and blue mother-of-pearl dial, circa 2006. Estimate: HKD $140,000-200,000 —approximately $18,000 to $25,800 USD.

Lastly, a Graff Leaf rare limited-edition lady's white gold full diamond and sapphire-set bracelet watch, circa 2015, accompanied with presentation box. Estimate: HKD $280,000 - 400,000 (No Reserve) —approximately $36,000 to $51,600 USD.

Bonhams, founded in 1793, is one of the world's largest and most renowned auctioneers, offering fine art and antiques, motor cars and jewellery. The main salerooms are in London, New York, Los Angeles and Hong Kong, with auctions also held in Knightsbridge, Edinburgh, Paris, San Francisco and Sydney. With a worldwide network of offices and regional representatives in 22 countries, Bonhams offers advice and valuation services in 60 specialist areas. For more info on Bonhams click here.