Bianchet is an independent watch brand that was launched in 2017 by Rodolfo Festa Bianchet and his wife Emmanuelle Festa Bianchet. Devoted to just one collection with a tonneau-shaped case, Bianchet exclusively sells tourbillons at a relatively affordable price point. Since tonneau-shaped cases are not reserved for brands like Richard Mille or Franck Muller exclusively, please don’t start thinking that this is a wannabe Richard Mille, because it is not.

With a design based on the ‘Golden Ratio 1.618’ and the Fibonacci sequence, the Bianchet Tourbillon B1.618 is mathematically proportioned, faithful to the founding principle of the Golden Ratio. The arcs of the tonneau-shaped case —measuring 43 mm x 50 mm x 13 mm— are accented by two fine bands of rubber, like colored seals, that act as a highlighter, revealing the harmony of the lines. The case was created in titanium-dust-infused carbon, a new material that combines carbon fiber and titanium powder.

The Bianchet Tourbillon B1.618 Openworked Carbon Earth features beige inserts —inserts are a hallmark of the Bianchet aesthetic and come in a wide range of colors— that fulfill a design and engineering purpose whilst defining the chromatic theme that extends through the hands and hour markers, the tone-on-tone rubber insert of the crown, and the strap.

Things to Know About the Watch

The case is made out of titanium-dust-infused carbon which is a new material that combines carbon fiber and titanium powder. To manufacture these cases, Bianchet works with an expert partner who has absolute mastery over advanced carbon technology. During the production process, a subtle coat of titanium powder is deposited on each layer of carbon plural. Approximately 1 kilogram —over 2 pounds— of titanium powder is carefully distributed between the 32 layers of carbon fiber to produce the composite material for 10 watch cases.

The result is a distinctive, unequaled finish with regard to the way reflections play off each other, from the deep black of carbon to the metallic luminosity of titanium: a moiré effect that alternates between glossy and matte in a random pattern unique to each piece.

The material retains the black color —with its sleek and sporty vibe— of carbon, and at the same time becomes more luminous, more precious. It took two years of research and development to achieve this result. To the touch the material is very smooth and has no abbrassions or a grain that could be felt to the touch. The rubberized crown also in beige features black lacquer highlighting Bianchet’s logo and two prominent screwed-on crown guards protect it.

The Bianchet Tourbillon B1.618 Openworked Carbon Earth features an open-worked dial that leaves nothing to the imagination. The architecture of the tourbillon and its spiral bridges highlight every component majestically. The tourbillon at 6 o’clock features a running seconds white hand that feels somewhat unnecessary as it detracts from the attention that could be solely given to the tourbillon spectacle. The flange features white markers and it is somewhat reminiscent of that on a Richard Mille watch. The markers and hands feature luminescent material to help with readability in dark conditions.

The Movement

Turning the watch over reveals the Bianchet calibre B1.618. The plate, wheel bridges, and tourbillon cage are all made of titanium. A material already known to be difficult to work with, it is doubly formidable when applied to watchmaking, and even more so in the construction of a tourbillon.

The titanium calibre is adjusted to 6 positions, ensuring a running precision of -4 to +4 seconds per day. The lubricating oils are enhanced with nanodiamonds —diamond nanoparticles— to reduce friction to an absolute minimum.

And because understated elegance now naturally fits in with an active lifestyle, the watch has been designed to be shock resistant up to 6,000 Gs, as well as water resistant to about 50 meters. The 105-hour power reserve adds a further dimension of comfort and wearability in everyday life and of course, the movement is fully visible via the display case back.

On the Wrist & Price

On the wrist, the Bianchet Tourbillon B1.618 Openworked Carbon Earth wears extremely light and true to its size. The wrist presence is very sporty and the watch is perfectly curved on the back to be quite ergonomic on the wrist. Just like the rest of their timepieces, the Bianchet Tourbillon B1.618 Openworked Carbon Earth is available in a limited edition of only 21 pieces and is delivered with two natural vulcanized rubber straps, one in black and the other in beige —the same color as the insert on the case, and the rubberized crown. Considering the price this watch is very nice but don’t expect finishes like those attained by APRP.

Sticker Price $60,500 USD. For more info on Bianchet click here.