Devoted to just two collections with a tonneau-shaped case —the Grande Date equipped with a date indicator and flying tourbillon and the B1.618 open-worked with a regular tourbillon—, Bianchet exclusively sells tourbillons at a relatively affordable price point. For those of you who don’t know the difference between a regular tourbillon and a flying tourbillon, we will explain everything you need to know about tourbillon watches right here.

A flying tourbillon and a regular tourbillon are both mesmerizing horological complications, yet they exhibit distinct differences in their construction and visual impact. The primary disparity lies in the way each is secured within the movement. A flying tourbillon lacks a bridge on its upper side, allowing it to appear as if it is floating within the movement, thereby offering an unobstructed view of its intricate rotating escapement. In contrast, a regular tourbillon features an upper bridge securing the entire mechanism, imparting a more traditional and solid aesthetic. This variation in construction contributes to different visual effects and highlights the exquisite craftsmanship inherent in each design. Ultimately, both the flying and regular tourbillon exemplify the pinnacle of watchmaking artistry, captivating enthusiasts with their technical prowess and aesthetic allure.

Now back to our hands-on review of the Bianchet Tourbillon B1.618 Openwork Hybrid Blue Carbon Titanium. Bianchet is an independent watch brand that was launched in 2017 by Rodolfo Festa Bianchet and his wife Emmanuelle Festa Bianchet.

With a design based on the ‘Golden Ratio 1.618’ and the Fibonacci sequence, the Bianchet Tourbillon B1.618 is mathematically proportioned, faithful to the founding principle of the Golden Ratio. The arcs of the tonneau-shaped case —measuring 43 mm x 50 mm x 13 mm— are accented by two fine bands of rubber, like colored seals, that act as a highlighter, revealing the harmony of the lines. The case was created in titanium-dust-infused carbon, a new material that combines carbon fiber and titanium powder. Since tonneau-shaped cases are very common among Richard Mille and Franck Muller watches, please don’t start thinking that this is a wannabe Richard Mille or Franck Muller, because it is not. After wearing one, we can already tell you that this watch is par for the course and right on the money.

The Bianchet Tourbillon B1.618 Openwork Hybrid Blue Carbon Titanium features blue inserts —inserts are a hallmark of the Bianchet aesthetic and this model is available with either blue or green inserts— that fulfill a design and engineering purpose whilst defining the chromatic theme that extends through the hands and hour markers, the tone-on-tone rubber insert of the crown, and the strap.

Things to Know About the Watch

The case is made out of titanium-dust-infused carbon which is a new material that combines carbon fiber and titanium powder. Meanwhile, the bezel and case back are made of Grade 5 Titanium. To manufacture these cases, Bianchet works with an expert partner who has absolute mastery over advanced carbon technology.

During the production process, a subtle coat of titanium powder is deposited on each layer of carbon plural. Approximately 1 kilogram —over 2 pounds— of titanium powder is carefully distributed between the 32 layers of carbon fiber to produce the composite material for 10 watch cases. The finishing on the bezel is one of the best satin-brushed finishes we’ve seen in the industry surpassing the quality of someone like Audemars Piguet.

The titanium-dust-infused carbon case is as distinctive as it gets. Its unequaled finish is about the way reflections play off each other, from the deep black of carbon to the metallic luminosity of titanium: a moiré effect that alternates between glossy and matte in a random pattern unique to each piece.

The material retains the black color —with its sleek and sporty vibe— of carbon, and at the same time becomes more luminous, more precious. It took two years of research and development to achieve this result. To the touch, the material is very smooth and has no abrasions or grain that could be felt to the touch. The rubberized crown also in blue features black lacquer highlighting Bianchet’s logo and two prominent screwed-on crown guards protect it.

The Bianchet Tourbillon B1.618 Openwork Hybrid Blue Carbon Titanium features an open-worked dial that leaves nothing to the imagination. The architecture of the tourbillon and its spiral bridges highlight every component majestically. The tourbillon at 6 o’clock features a running seconds blue hand that feels somewhat unnecessary as it detracts from the attention that could be solely given to the tourbillon spectacle. The flange features white and blue markers and it is somewhat reminiscent of that on a Richard Mille watch. The markers and hands feature luminescent material to help with readability in dark conditions.

The Movement

Turning the watch over reveals the Bianchet calibre B1.618. The case back surrounding the display sapphire crystal, the plate, wheel bridges, and the tourbillon cage are all made of titanium. A material already known to be difficult to work with, it is doubly formidable when applied to watchmaking, and even more so in the construction of a tourbillon.

The titanium calibre is adjusted to 6 positions, ensuring a running precision of -4 to +4 seconds per day. The lubricating oils are enhanced with nanodiamonds —diamond nanoparticles— to reduce friction to an absolute minimum.

And because understated elegance now naturally fits in with an active lifestyle, the watch has been designed to be shock resistant up to 6,000 Gs, as well as water resistant to about 50 meters. The 105-hour power reserve adds a further dimension of comfort and wearability in everyday life and of course, the movement is fully visible via the display case back.

On the Wrist & Price

On the wrist, the Bianchet Tourbillon B1.618 Openwork Hybrid Blue Carbon Titanium wears extremely light and true to its size. The wrist presence is very sporty and the watch is perfectly curved on the back to be quite ergonomic on the wrist.

Just like the rest of their timepieces, the Bianchet Tourbillon B1.618 Openwork Hybrid Blue Carbon Titanium is available in a limited edition of only 21 pieces and is delivered with two natural vulcanized rubber straps, one in black and the other in blue matching the insert on the case, and the rubberized crown. Considering the price this watch is very nice but don’t expect finishes like those attained by APRP on Richard Mille movements.

Sticker Price USD 60,500. For more info on Bianchet click here.