WATCH COLLECTING LIFESTYLE

View Original

Insider: Angelus U21 Tourbillon & Angelus U22 Tourbillon. Hands-on with Two Impressive Tourbillons with Carbon Baseplates.

Marking a new chapter in Angelus’ Urban Collection of cutting-edge watchmaking, the U21 and U22 Tourbillon revisit the singular movement and streamlined design focused on structural optimization with two new executions: the U21 and U22. From the movement to the case design, the objective from the get-go has been to showcase the splendor of the movement’s architecture and tourbillon while reducing as much weight as possible. For this purpose, the U21 and U22 Tourbillon feature a carbon fiber main plate, giving the impression of being a part of the case.

The U21 Tourbillon interprets the uniquely structured movement in a noble metal case measuring 42 mm in diameter, combing the bezel-less carbon fiber central case element with polished and satin-brushed 18-karat red gold lugs, enhancing its visual appeal. The skeletonized bridges are solid 18-karat red gold for additional harmony between the case and movement. To further enhance legibility, the hands are filled with white Superluminova.

On the other hand, the U22 Tourbillon features a carbon fiber and titanium case like the original U20, however with an even greater emphasis on weight reduction. Thanks to its carbon fiber main plate, the U22 Tourbillon weighs a mere 54 grams in total. The flange ring has also been revisited, set with satin-finished applied indexes for the hour markers. The central hands offer a racy look thanks to the red Superluminova.


The Case

The goal with these U21 and U22 Tourbillon is to present the essence of the movement by removing any superfluous material. What seems to look deceptively simple to achieve requires great artistic vision and engineering prowess. The more material that is removed, the more the structure of the movement has to be carefully calculated to ensure rigidity and sturdiness for a maximum precision. And to further increase visibility into the top of the three-dimensional movement, both models features a unique design element. The case is fashioned without a bezel and instead uses a sapphire crystal dome, which also allows a sideways view onto the movement.

The U21 and U22 Tourbillon deserve closer inspection, which reveals many of the well- thought-out details that go into creating a contemporary, cutting-edge skeleton watch: the variable inertia balance wheel of the tourbillon is especially designed and crafted to minimize air friction; the patterned carbon fiber used in the main plate is offers maximum rigidity; ruby bearings are set into solid gold chatons. The ultra-light case, entirely made of carbon fiber, red gold or titanium and sapphire, has been designed to echo the three-dimensional aspect and the technical feel of the timepiece.

The tourbillon even goes a step further. It does not boast an ordinary movement that has been skeletonized afterwards, but a tourbillon movement that has been created from scratch to be as open, three-dimensional and resplendent as possible. The discerning eye will be pleased to discover that haute horlogerie has not been sacrificed on the altar of minimal mass: components have been hand-chamfered, hand-polished and hand satin-finished to ensure that they look as good as they are filigree.And to further increase visibility into the top of the three-dimensional movement, both models features a unique design element. The case is fashioned without a bezel and instead uses a sapphire crystal dome, which also allows a sideways view onto the movement.


The Movement

Powered by the in-house calibre 250, the U21 and U22 deliver a power reserve of 90 hours while beating at a frequency of 21,600 vph. The 18-jewel movement is finished with a carbon fiber baseplate making the watch ultra light and extremely sporty. The total watch for the titanium U21 Tourbillon is 48.8 grams. The finishing of the components is 'haute horlogerie' all the way and the view through the case back is pure watchporn.


The Strap

The new Angelus U21 and the U22 Tourbillon are fitted with a stealth black alligator leather strap with titanium insert and equipped with a titanium or red gold pin buckle engraved with the Angelus logo.


On the Wrist & Pricing

On the wrist, the new Angelus U21 Tourbillon and the Angelus U22 Tourbillonwear true to their size, extremely light and ultra comfortable. The wrist presence screams 'haute horlogerie' from every single angle you look at the watch and the skeletonized movement sans dial make this a very unique piece. These two watches are available in a limited edition of 18 pieces each.

Sticker Price $35,800 USD for titanium and $49,100 USD for red gold. For more info on Angelus click here.