WATCH COLLECTING LIFESTYLE

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From the Editor: My 12 Favorite Watches of 2023

As I wrap up the year here at WCL, I decided to put together a list of my favorite twelve watches of 2023. Each of these watches sang to me one way or another during 2023 so I thought it would be good to share with all of you and celebrate each of the months of the year that is now ending. There is a little bit of everything for everyone, from Vacheron Constantin to Ferdinand Berthoud and everything in between including IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Tudor. Now let’s take a look at the best watches of 2023.


Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date

This new watch is also a very under-the-radar watch equipped with a 41 mm stainless steel case and the iconic blue lacquered dial with its velvet-finish flange and sunburst satin-brushed center that can be worn in formal or casual occasions or for different types of activities. The complications are displayed with extreme legibility and the layout seems to flow naturally without trying too hard. Furthermore, the ability to wear this watch on its bracelet or a rubber or calf strap within a matter of seconds. More on this watch.

Sticker Price USD 43,800. For more info on Vacheron Constantin click here.


A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph

The new A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph is the perfect addition to the Odysseus collection that was initially presented four years ago as the first sporty-elegant timepiece from the brand. This new watch is limited to only 100 pieces and is a feat of horology.

Powered by the newly developed calibre L156.1, the Odysseus Chronograph is cased in a generous stainless steel case measuring 42.5 mm in diameter by 14.2 mm in thickness. Its narrow bezel allowed for a comparatively large black dial which in this case for the very first time is made out of brass and not silver.

Together with the lancet-shaped hands and the typical Lange displays for the date and day of the week, it assures excellent legibility. To make things even more interesting, the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph is equipped with a black dial with a textured surface, the notched baton appliques made of white gold, and the subsidiary seconds scale is underlaid with concentric circles. More on this watch.

Sticker Price €135,000 Euro —approximately $147,000 USD. For more info on A. Lange & Söhne click here.


Grand Seiko Masterpiece Spring Drive Limited Edition SBGZ009

In a limited edition of only 50 pieces comes the new Grand Seiko Masterpiece Spring Drive Limited Edition SBGZ009 Micro Artist Studio featuring a fully engraved case in platinum measuring 38.5 mm in diameter. Made one by one and engraved by hand, this new watch takes its inspiration from the white birch trees that lie at the foot of the North Yatsugatake Mountains in the eastern part of Shinshu. This white birch forest has a unique look like that of the textured dial and the platinum case that express the natural beauty of this forest when it appears blanketed by freshly fallen snow during the height of winter. More on this watch.

Sticker Price USD 79,000. For more info on Grand Seiko click here.


Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

For the first time since its redesign in 2016, Piaget has now added a perpetual calendar to the Polo collection. First presented in stainless steel and now also in 18K rose gold, the iconic Piaget Polo reaches unprecedented heights this year 2023 with the Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin powered by the 1255P caliber.

The Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin features a dark emerald-green dial with a gadroon pattern and three subdials for the date, month —along with leap-year indication—, and day of the week at 9, 12, and 3 o’clock, along with the moon phase indication at 6 o’clock. The watch is cased in a generous but still elegant and thin 42 mm case with a thickness of only 8.65 mm. True to Piaget tradition, the subdials incorporate several finishes, adding visual richness as the light plays across them, along with Super-Luminova indexes and the watch comes with a green rubber strap and a green alligator strap. More on this watch.

Sticker Price USD 76,000. For more info on Piaget click here.


Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2T Final Edition

The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2T Final Edition comes in three versions including a satin-brushed blue, black, or ruthenium dial. These new watches mark the final edition of the first calibre FB-T.FC that was launched in 2015. Eight years later after releasing the FB-T.TC with an octagonal case, a tourbillon movement with fusee-and-chain transmission, and a pillar-based construction, the Chronomètre FB 2T comes with a round case for the first time in a 38-piece final edition. More on this watch.

Sticker Price USD 268,000. For more info on Ferdinand Berthoud click here.


Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar ref. 5261R

One of my favorite watches presented by Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders 2023 was the new Aquanaut Luce ref. 5261R in 18K rose gold. Despite that, this new watch is an addition to the Luce ladies’ collection, its size and looks make it a perfect unisex watch that can be worn pretty much by anyone. Featuring a practical and easy-to-use Annual Calendar, its iconic design with a rounded octagonal shape is enhanced by the contrast between the polished and satin-brushed finishes and by the blue-gray dial with a matching rubber strap with Aquanaut pattern.

The blue-gray embossed dial with the signature aquanaut pattern features a nice layout that is easy to read and very pleasing to the eyes. The dial features a month indicator at 9 o’clock, the day of the week at 3, the moon phase indicator at noon, and a small date aperture at 6 o’clock. The applied Arabic numerals along with the white transfers on the complete calendar provide great readability in a very understated timepiece. More on this watch.

Sticker Price USD 61,510. For more info on Patek Philippe click here.


Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph is presented in both stainless steel and 18K pink gold, complemented by dark blue and black straps respectively. The case measuring 49.4 mm x 29.9 mm x 11.14 mm thick is complemented by a blue-grey dial for the stainless steel model and a black dial for the pink gold version. The blue-grey dial is created through an innovative ADL —atomic layer deposit— process in which ultra-thin layers of titanium oxide are deposited. More on this watch.

Sticker Price USD 21,400 for stainless steel and USD 37,400 for 18K pink gold. For more info on Jaeger-LeCoultre click here.


Laurent Ferrier Classic Micro-Rotor Evergreen

When we think about Laurent Ferrier, the first thing that comes to mind is how flawlessly this brand executes its watches, particularly their movements and dials. Released with an Evergreen —forest green colored— dial, now comes the Classic Micro-Rotor Evergreen in 18K red gold.

The term ‘Evergreen’ combines timeless character with the associations of the color green: a shade deeply connected with nature, growth, and renewal. Embodying these principles, the latest interpretations of the Micro-Rotor evoke this enduring elegance. The curve of the Classic red gold case reflects the pure, restrained Laurent Ferrier style. More on this watch.

Sticker Price CHF 57,500 Swiss Francs. For more info on Laurent Ferrier click here.


MB&F Horological Machine No. 8 Mark 2

The MB&F HM8 Mark 2 was presented in a choice of white or British racing green CarbonMacrolon that has a matte finish on the top and a high polish on the sides. The white version is paired with a green CVD rotor and light green minute markers, while the British racing green version comes with a red gold rotor and turquoise minute markers and is limited to 33 pieces.

The time is indicated by bi-directional jumping hours and trailing minutes, displayed by dual reflective sapphire crystal prisms with integrated magnifying lenses. The HM8 Mark 2 is delivered on a calfskin strap texturized-like fabric, in white for the British green model and green for the white model with a titanium tang buckle. More on this watch.

Sticker Price USD 78,000. For more info on MB&F click here.


IWC Pilot's Watch Timezoner TOP GUN 'Woodland'

The Timezoner TOP GUN ‘Woodland’ is equipped with a dark green ceramic case measuring 46 mm in diameter and 15 mm in thickness, an olive green dial with Arabic numerals, an olive green ceramic bezel slightly lighter than the color of the case, and a green rubber strap with an olive green nylon insert. More on this watch.

Sticker Price USD 17,400. For more info on IWC click here. 


Tudor Black Bay GMT 'Albino' Opaline Dial

The Tudor Black Bay GMT ref. 79830RB was released at Baselworld 2018 and it was an immediate success. In 2023, Tudor released a new iteration of this watch with an opaline dial with a galvanic finish that makes it look a lot like a vintage Rolex GMT Master ref. 6542 ‘Albino’. Fitted with a 41 mm case in stainless steel, the new Tudor Black Bay GMT reference M79830RB-0010 is available on a stainless steel bracelet or with a fabric strap. The watch is powered by the Manufacture Calibre MT5652 which is a COSC movement. This automatic movement provides a power reserve of 70 hours when fully wound. More on this watch.

Sticker Price USD 4,375 on a bracelet. For more info on Tudor click here.


Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chrono 'Panda'

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chrono 'Panda' just like its predecessors is equipped with a 42.5 mm diameter case in stainless steel with satin brushed finish and a highly polished Maltese cross six-sided bezel. The dial is silver-toned with a sunburst satin finish, snailed black counters with white imprints, a black velvet-finished flange, and 18K white gold hour-markers and hands —an incredible vertical satin-brushed finish on the seconds hand.

The new Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chrono 'Panda' is delivered with an interchangeable stainless steel bracelet and two additional straps in black rubber and black calf with light grey contrast stitching. The two straps share an equally interchangeable stainless steel deployant double folding clasp with half Maltese cross. More on this watch.

Sticker Price USD 32,400. For more info on Vacheron Constantin click here.